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tickertapes · 2024-09-02, 20:35

Can someone explain the A, LA characters adjacent to each channel and circled in red.

dupreezd · 2024-09-02, 20:53

L = Signal not sent. Signal is below the threshold you set for each channel. To be processed, a channel's threshold must be at least twice the channel noise level also.
P = Signal not sent. Signal is below threshold * adjustable_percentage.
A = Signal not sent. You enabled Automatic filter by amplitude function, and the algorithms trigger the filter.

Best is to run full manual and not rely on the controller automatically adjusting the gain.

Hope this helps.

gerbold · 2024-09-03, 05:17

When you hoover with the mouse over the character (L in the screenshot), the meaning will be shown in a tooltip.

I'm personally happy to operate my stations in full auto mode controlled by the Blitzortung servers.
For me this is a stress reduction because I do not longer have to adapt settings depending on wheather or environmental conditions.
Stations web page: Settings -> Main -> Remote Control -> Automatic Mode

cutty · (This post was last modified: 2024-09-03, 12:12 by cutty.)

Many Questions can be resolved using controller gui page..
"About" "Blitzortung.org Manual"
e.g. your query:
https://docs.lightningmaps.org/station-o...s/#filters

The mouseover, tracker and GPS info MAY NOT always be displayed on controller,
IF controller is using max memory for SIGNALS processing... mem is limited, and
the 'page GUI displays' are the first to be sacrificed in order to send / recieve data.

Re: 'automatic" mode... as Gerbold mentions, Many operators rely on full automatic...
and it definitely is a plus in some situations. However, in general, for BEST data, etc,
it's better to operate in manual mode, with optimized settings, so that the 'relative' status
remains consistent for a station... 'effective gain', relative peaks, noise basement etc.
When 'optimizing' a station for it's environment, location, etc, Automatic should NEVER be used,
always use manual to establish the 'general' ambient environment averages over a period of time.
There are other reasons 'automatic' MAY NOT be the best mode of operation for most
stations, but as Gerbold suggests, for some locations may benefit from it's deployment.
In my case,
with my extremely variable noise environment, for example, automatic is quite detrimental,
I prefer to allow the Interference Modes to operate as designed, most of the time, and rarely
make an adjustment otherwise.

In extreme situations, I have built up a 'composite' remote, which runs locally on my 'main' PC,
where I can manually hit all my systems at once, according to long term 'general'
situation adjustments. A crappy video of it to illustrate is here:
https://frankfortweather.us/blitzblitz/B...emCon.html
It's not always 'effective', IF the controllers are under heavy data processing
and the moment, but then I shouldn't be 'diddling' with them that much, since it plays heck
with the 'relative' station DNA pattern stored in the receiving servers processing computer.

(The 'Sieve' database of last 1000 signals sent).

tickertapes · (This post was last modified: 2024-09-03, 20:29 by tickertapes.)

Thanks Gerbold, Cutty, Dupreezd.

I had tinkered around with the manual settings but being a noob I was worried about sending garbage data to the servers in the event my noise floor were to suddenly rise. My philosophy was quality over quantity. I am very new to this but find it fascinating.

Is Scaynes Hill 3083 doing okay?

I was going to go down the ferrite antenna route but RS delivered them yesterday all broken into many pieces. Maybe my 2 x 5 turns of copper wire are doing okay?

I've mounted my PCB's in polycarbonate IP68 enclosures with clear doors so I can see status LEDs. Would there be any advantage to putting them in a metal enclosure to get the noise levels down? I currently have a noise floor of around 50mv p-p. My 5v supply which is coming from a 48v POE switch via a splitter has about 8mv of noise on it. Are these respectable figures or should I improve things? I didn't fit the optional electrolytic cap to the control board btw.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VucZLPWAKgXHpDoCA
.

Thanks for your support.

tickertapes

mwaters · 2024-09-03, 23:36

(2024-09-03, 19:29)tickertapes Wrote: I was going to go down the ferrite antenna route but RS delivered them yesterday all broken into many pieces. Maybe my 2 x 5 turns of copper wire are doing okay?

tickertapes

Gerbold just posted that ferrite rod antennas are not as good as wire loops. Believe him! Smile

That's why I decided to use wire loops, even though a support frame is needed, and they take up more space. Been using them for years.

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